Silafando - Gambia by foot
Silafando - a 930km African Odyssey by Foot
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The Gambia is the smallest country on the continent of Africa, and no matter the size of its villages, each one has a chief, known locally as an Alkalo. An Alkalo can be male or female and can be either a descendant of the founder of the village or elected by the villagers. The Alkalo’s rolls include negotiating disputes within the village,
giving land and hosting travellers who pass through his domain.
In 2009, I co-led with my wife, Helen Jones-Florio, and three Gambian colleagues, the first recorded circumnavigation of The Gambia by foot – a 930km journey. Each night we would spend in a different village, and I would make a portrait of the Alkalo and his close entourage. Traditionally, a traveller who stays with an Alkalo would present them with five bitter seeds called Kola nuts, in thanks for hosting and protecting them for the night. This gift giving is called ‘silafando’ in the local Mandinka language - ‘a gift to you, on behalf of my journey’.
As well as giving the Alkalo the traditional Kola nuts, I would also give him/her a print from the portrait session, made on a battery-powered printer. For many, this would be the first photograph they had of themselves. The portraits, therefore, are not just a document of the Alkalos and village elders but are my modern interpretation of the ancient practice of the traveller giving 'silafando'.
The expedition was supported in part by The Gambia Horse and Donkey Trust
who loaned us three intrepid donkeys, Neil, Paddy and Hadley