/html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5705 copy.jpg 1ea50fc9432beb104b7d03dec3346f26 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain1733.jpg ef1505b7e0075d7325b63b319995b09b /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain3.jpg ff72d7988691714870392a2a6cb001d8 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5189.JPG 44eca4b9d6037af765e41e253c49009f /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5810.JPG 39b1ca07320461e5de5af25527f64840 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrainfrench..jpg 312ccc25f900a93e3f91932a7332a537 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5323.JPG e1ddb02cf926b8d5c41fb54d13fed0a0 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5100.JPG 3aedf738d4fdd4a8759d5527845d0acf /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5763.JPG 0f833f7401b38a3897c61a3a06bd7f92 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5584.JPG cd6896186849675db18b886cb8ff57ee /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5424.JPG a3a1fb76fa0ea3cd84d5d8d8da57c886 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain7484.JPG bce37dbdc8184ad4636404cf6f2888a3 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain7768.JPG 8951d5887532c6293522d0978055be3b /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain7411.JPG 02f82d8d0c924fbd7eb9383d52883b4e /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain7051.JPG 18ef0243f2026f31492d638ec2e30800 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain7105.JPG 313778b0879715eb0062a0f6504b68a0 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain6532.JPG 5d0308819501835b42bfb66edb5d2557 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5773.JPG 499f589b80b722e76c98ce946875183c /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain6338.JPG 2e54204652c8ad8dbbae085637ec4323 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain7206.JPG 0328ba0e898d80c97b8c677abcb1ce74 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain5503.JPG acb9187921f8e4a06ee8dd128b731d0b /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain7159.JPG 342673b30f843eac639277421ae15e2a /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain6704.JPG 07704e2970616de907b0b23bab94103a /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain7625.JPG 19c3c3bfed948c475fdedc492051a8b7 /html/../gallery/large/humanterrain6953.JPG 8fedb1487951e05e9a87015f76cdcb07 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan043.jpg b02794d33d38f8eae7ab15ae7beee10f /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan046.jpg 41a61388bbb216417661d6a268ad818c /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan001.jpg f67adb75535b1e7b53206afdb4a0b1cc /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan055.jpg ab6b11e18aa660fbaaf8e005edcf5c5d /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan026.jpg 4da068f53184e093b4f7e2fa8a7b9a10 My journey to the Taliban-controlled region of Afghanistan in August 2000 was in fact not planned. I was on my way to Kashmir to follow the Jihadist Trail, when I got a call to join my colleague and writer, Pepe Escobar who was working on the Pakistan/Afghanistan border, who said, “This [Afghanistan] is where it is really happening”. Crossing the Afghanistan-Pakistan border by foot at the Khyber Pass, we then spent two weeks driving through the heart of Taliban-controlled Afghanistan to try and get a clearer understanding of who the Taliban were, and how they held sway over the populace. We felt we had dropped through a tear in the space/time fabric – to a surreal land of corrupted ancient ideologies spouted from the mouths of kohl eyed men driving brand new Toyota 4x4’s, where photography was outlawed and subsequently got us arrested on two occasions. To follow the full story on Afghanistan we knew we would also need to head to the northeast to meet the Taliban opposition (Northern Alliance) who controlled that portion of the country. This we could not do until a year later in August 2001. Our first attempt to cross the border from Pakistan disguised as women wearing full covering burqas failed. We then spent the next three weeks organizing a ride into the country via Tajikistan on an old Russian helicopter operated by the Northern Alliance. A month spent in the northeast was like being in Shangri La compared to our two weeks with the Taliban. We worked fairly freely, and were eventually granted an interview with Commander Ahmed Shah Massoud. Despite our two successful Afghan journeys we felt that the world at the end of August 2001 cared little about what was happening in this harsh land. On September 5th Pepe returned to Bangkok to write, and I to New York feeling somewhat dejected at the thought that our efforts to bring attention to this country would probably not get much media space. Little did we know that within a few days of returning our world would change dramatically. Commander Massoud would be assassinated by alleged Al-Qaeda operatives on September 9th – a month to the day we had met him, and two days later I would be standing next to the twin towers as they collapsed. /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan003.jpg a78e71a72a9d423bf24708c22f9c5abd /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan021.jpg 767ea461bab88842ce043d75cd9cf3dc /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan023.jpg 51ae3766f06c062f663c15230599e85d /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan050.jpg 633917a84c9db730c2152a5867ec2d79 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan006.jpg afcf177cbd9e2aac1da9a2cfada6cffa /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan032.jpg 235502e7264a5ae0d7e7c0180dca6c85 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan019.jpg ae38e4959f99a6a293a2482a79dad1b4 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan033.jpg 8f2b009091f0f4fd6ea598e79bd56148 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan034.jpg 81be5a4148b99915297481a030d6e97d /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan020.jpg f5cdf7b39155f00117bfa4ffc63b96e0 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan018.jpg 4656efee4a7cea1138b1dc87990d237e /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan012.jpg b74847ec8cd6402f5046bb8a327fa405 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan027.jpg 1299bfb5cfad18ba909c3b0c43b9a663 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan028.jpg 5e93031cd75ac409b0e5964458077960 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan041.jpg 29f3250c8a4c158984750abb0476c956 /html/../gallery/large/afghanistan010.jpg 164ae2d135751044a82e9e566321b85e /html/../gallery/large/twoshortwalkstextfinal.jpg f7267783a0c06124728a0982ca70f103 /html/../gallery/large/homelandpoem.jpg 8d78310aef7eac38040e02cdf7051277 Baghdad Café Throughout the Islamic world, Friday is known as the day for Juma prayer. But for the literati that fill the benches and rest their short Turkish coffees on the small wobbly tables at the Sh'ah Bander Café, Friday is dedicated to the written word. By 9:30 a.m. the café is full with betweeded middle-aged men. If stripped of their nagila pipes and shai Iraqi teas, they would more resemble characters from an Evelyn Waugh novel than stereotypical Arabs, with their pinstripes, Yorkshire caps, and dapper ties reminiscent of 1920s England. The Caribbean-colored walls of the café reflect the nobility of the wordsmiths who sit beneath them, crammed as they are with black-and-white photographs of what seems to be a rather sophisticated time in Baghdad's past. Antique frames are stuffed with yellowed pictures of Iraq's first king, Faisal Abdul Aziz, as both boy and man, hand-colored prints of a Baghdad street riot during British times, and endless faces from an era that knew no weapons of mass destruction. Outside, on Mutanabi Street, booksellers hustle dust-covered volumes for however many Dinar might change hands. The street, named for a legendary poet who thought himself a prophet, is the historic heart of Baghdad's book district. Sh'ah Bander, in fact, is located in a former printing press. It's no surprise that such literary interests persist in the region that produced the Epic of Gilgamesh. This, after all, is present-day Mesopotamia. Throughout the Al-Mutanabi district, the restaurants are full, the fruit stands are fully stocked, and the red double-decker buses rolling by seem oddly familiar. There are no armed militiamen at intersections. No tanks grinding up the asphalt on Sharia Raschid. But through the carbon monoxide haze one sees the shattered underbelly of a country crippled by twelve years of economic sanctions, two self-destructive wars with its neighbors in the past fourteen years, and an oppressive, self-serving dictatorship. The Sh'ah Bander and other nearby cafés are a haven from the sanctions that have left many intellectuals driving taxis for Dinar instead of pounding the keys of Crown typewriters. There is little money in Baghdad at all, even less for the purchase of words, but their passion for writing has not been dissuaded by lack of financial remuneration. "We don't need a full stomach, but we do need to read and write" says Wajeeh Abbas, who writes for next to nothing for the weekly magazine al-Itihad. A few of the writers who gather here have been awarded small stipends from the government, but they have yet to receive any payments. It seems that the oppression and economic struggles have given these writers an even stronger desire to produce. Many poems reflect their suffering, but others still relish romantic ideals. "We are human not iron" retorts Abdulati el Rashed of the al-Jumhuriah newspaper. The current trend among many of the poets is to write in what they call a European style, without rhyme. But some still prefer the more traditional Arab colloquial form known as she'ar shabi. Whatever the style, the writers at the Sh'ah Bander call their passion for writing "a form of madness." Although many of these men have begrudgingly sold off their book collections to traders on al-Mutanabi, they feel the need to look forward, not back -- a reflection of Iraqi life outside the walls of Sh'ah Bander, where a city waits in limbo. The people have nothing more to do than go through the daily motions of normality. In the shadow of impending chaos, the café is filled with a sense of not just preserving less troubled times, but of continuing a strong cultural tradition rooted in words. "This is my homeland / It's my home and grave / And last place" writes poet Amer Abdil Ameer. "Who'll carry its bags but me?" 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